「不要以為讓模特穿上 Vans 就是在做街頭品牌」,這是 sulvam 設計師 藤田哲平(Teppei Fujita) 對自己於 2013 年所成立品牌的正名,對 藤田哲平 來說,他希望做出的,是保有精簡的外型,卻存在複雜剪裁細節的「時裝」,並非以醒目 logo、聳動標語取向的街牌。
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而當我們談論到 sulvam 這個牌子時,首先會先提到這出自於山本耀司的前打版師之手,而在 sulvam 的服裝裡,也確實留著一股承襲黑色詩人的浪漫氛圍,放任布料在人體上纏繞、附著,用剪刀劃開空間,藤田哲平 不為每一季度的發表做主題註解,而是嘗試著讓人關注到作品本身的張力與情感。
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在 2019aw 的作品中,sulvam 持續地把重點放在布料與人體的關係上,困難的立體裁段技術控制了織物的形狀、顏色,在混亂之中還是帶有獨特的秩序美學。單品上,帽子、長外套、薄紗、軍用外套的運用,除了呼應到 藤田哲平 對 30 年代美國環境蕭條危機倖存者的敬佩,領帶、襪子上的珍珠細節搭配鮮豔的花色、寬大的輪廓更有著彷彿明星般的積極感,讓人不禁想像,不論是對於時尚的投注還是針對山本耀司包袱的回應,成立至今第六年的 sulvam 正透過 藤田哲平 的情感與手工,一步步擺脫“新 Yohji” 之名,向獨屬 sulvam 的未來邁進。
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