在進入正題之前,我想先請各位快速通過幾個品牌,並腦補一下這些品牌的輪廓印象(或是你要逐一搜尋我也不會阻止你),好了!開始:sacai、Gosha Rubchinskiy、UNDERCOVER、Sasquatchfabrix、doublet。
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上述品牌精選
關於 elephant TRIBAL fabrics 品牌背景,這裡先快速做出說明。原來就職於美容院的君塚涼太(Ryota kimiduka),因為一場交通事故導致腰骨受傷,無法久站、行走困難的他決意畫風一轉,從執刀髮型輪廓變成裁縫服裝版型,並在 2013年 創立 elephant TRIBAL fabrics,屬於「半路出家型」的服裝設計師。
然而這類跨域出江湖的設計師因為少了傳統科班的傲人姿態,通常具有較多的想像力以及敢於突破嘗試的精神,但凡事都有一體兩面,當中自然不乏苦無方向只好借鏡大師,再加以自身觀點而成的設計主義。無關褒貶,如能藉此走出自己的一條道路,「挪用而後出師」又何嘗不可呢?
延伸閱讀:# 軍事風格異材拼接:elephant TRIBAL fabrics 2019FW 形象照釋出
入行以來 elephant TRIBAL fabrics 主張便相當明確,打著近年由 sacai 正式掀起的 「HYBRID 混種」炫風,服裝種類、文化之間的交錯拼接自然能夠快速吸引眼球。2020ss 品牌主題定調「ELEPHAB LOBO」,前者單字延伸自品牌 elephant ; 後者經過搜尋結果除了有“灰狼”的意思,另外就是年輕時在美國乏人問津,卻在亞洲紅透半邊天再一路燒回自己家鄉國土的民謠歌手 Roland Kent LaVoie,他在 1971年 開始稱自己做 Lobo,因此今天大家幾乎稱他為「灰狼羅伯」,然而關於這位歌手的故事這裡先不詳述,但有趣的是 「灰狼羅伯」其實與台灣關係匪淺,剛剛提到在美國並不得志的他,卻憑著抒情的嗓音在台灣獲得空前的支持,甚至還錄製了一張《Am I Going Crazy》專輯,由台灣的飛碟唱片發行,以表達他對於自己受歡迎程度的驚喜及喜悅。
離題了,不管是原來的「灰狼」還是 「灰狼羅伯」的勵志故事,他們其實都隱約透露出共同的關鍵含意:野外、孤傲的感覺。因此 「ELEPHAB LOBO」,就正是以 君塚涼太 對於當今城市需求所做的 Urban Outdoor 機能裝束。詳閱一下春夏形象,幾個 2019aw 受到好評的單品如抽繩長褲、西裝料拼接 MA1、inside-out 手法也持續地被延續下來,而在視覺感方面,各種超現實人像及東洋畫風的葛飾北齋也加入到本季行列當中,且如沒意外的話,運用上質馬皮所製作而成的可拆式 Biker Vest 應該會是這次滿受注目的焦點單品,從材質提升、圖案運用、機能設計細節,都依然章顯著品牌善於洞悉流行趨勢的敏銳觀察。
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但相信看到這裡各位睿智的讀者應該也猜出開頭我所想表達的意思吧?凡事都該適可而止,過與不及都不是好事,不過這僅是編輯個人看法,買不買帳還是個人自由拉!
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這次最有興趣的原來是一落落的面紙,正當我以為品牌也開始出惡趣周邊了的時候,原來…
我想我該閉嘴了!