破題吧!如果你是嚮往成為輕柔、仙人般氣質的人,那穿 ANEI 就對了!
就像 羽石裕(Yu Haneishi) 從不避諱推銷他算得上傲人的履歷:先後在山本耀司主線 Yohji yamamoto、運動支線 Y3 擔任打版師,而後轉往另一日本時裝品牌 Visvim 擔當生產管理一職。因為豐富的時裝資歷,羽石裕 對於山本耀司詩意的版型設計、Visvim 的工廠製作處理皆十分熟知,這讓今年春夏才剛成立的個人品牌 ANEI 在問世之前就已經領先同期品牌好一大截……。以上種種都是談到 ANEI 所要知道的基本知識,另外就是有了這顯赫背景所做出的品牌,價格自然不是一般大眾所能駕馭。
羽石裕
血緣關係騙不了人,目前為止「素材感」、「飄逸感」還是品牌最核心關注的地方,發表到第三季的 2020ss,即便大氛圍不變,但也不難看出本次 羽石裕 將手段更著重於布料輕盈的表現上。「TENCEL」天絲棉就是被多次運用到春夏系列作中的頂級棉料之一,這種棉類帶有較長的植物纖維,因此具有高強度、高純淨度的特質,且帶有涼爽、絲質感以及垂墜感等溫柔的性格,縮水率低的優點也可以將衣物無慮下水清洗,依然完好如初。其餘 羽石裕 也使用如蠶絲、醋酸纖維、帶光澤度的 LINEN ,搭配 Unisex 輪廓,把 Yohji yamamoto、Y3、Visvim 美學共治一爐,加以開創屬於自己的服裝道路。
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同時本季 ANEI 除了材質上的講究,亦同樣強調單品之間的適搭性,如仔細觀察會發現有許多綁帶結構穿插在服裝之間,這些綁帶設計一來能夠透過纏繞、綑綁製造鬆、窄造型轉換,也可使中、外層「交錯」,穿出疊加的層次效果,有印象的話,山本耀司就時常使用使用這樣的造型方式來詮釋服裝,不過 ANEI 在顏色上的表現顯然更加多元,也更有一股輕新、透質的表現。
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從歷經三大品牌的陶冶,羽石裕 也用他更為深厚的色彩美學,以低調而多彩之姿另闢一格。從初亮相便獲 Tokyo Fashion Award 肯定,到 2020 春夏,ANEI 所透露的傲氣只有更爐火純青,接班氣勢已然成形。
但…也只是成型而已,要想正式青出於藍,以上面兩位大佬健在的態勢,ANEI 還有很長一段路要走呢!