Thom Browne開始發起一連串的活動,像是下周要在Art Basel Miami對大眾開放的藝術展,在曼哈頓要設立的新址,還有就是明年3月在巴黎,他的第一個無性別服裝秀。在時尚圈已經蔚為風潮的中性議題,和大品牌們不分性別的秀場早就已經見怪不怪,現在才跟上的Thom Browne是否腳步太慢了呢?
![# Thom Browne:2020早秋系列大改革!? 1 # Thom Browne:2020早秋系列大改革!? 1](https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/20Pre-fall_Thom_Browne-4.jpg)
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這些一連串的活動對Thom Browne來說,都在以不同的方式影響品牌,而這次我們要探討的是明年的早秋系列,可以說是一道模糊男女性別界線的橋樑。其中最明顯可見的就是他稱為”ticket pocket”的夾克和大衣上,配上oevrsized的高腰褲。他說:「這些單品無論是男裝或女裝都是一樣的。我們不會用不同的方式剪裁,也不會為了女性而調整設計,因為我想要的是更加的oversized的效果」。
而Thom Browne這次將大亨小傳的年代氛圍,帶進他最擅長的經典美式運動風,用帶有圖案的手工的花呢和羊毛百褶裙;加上其經典的特殊手感處理的動物圖案,例如: 大象、獅子、斑馬和長頸鹿。但另一方面,反觀外衣的部分,他反而是選用了現代的效果,像是現代化的後加工處理亮面深藍和白色相間條文雨衣,正裝剪裁的羽絨外套…等。
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「在我的這場秀中,我放置了時間最久的裝置藝術作品,它就好像是我這15年所做的事情的延伸,但這是一個單獨的藝術世界,對我來說很有意思,因為它完全是一個獨立的作品,也吸引了完全不同的觀眾。」Browne說到,他也很期待聽到大家對這個秀有怎樣的想法。
![# Thom Browne:2020早秋系列大改革!? 36 # Thom Browne:2020早秋系列大改革!? 36](https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-18.jpg)
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看到這次的Thom Browne,讓編輯立刻聯想到那個以針織和花呢起家的日本品牌Coohem,色彩更加活潑,但是圖案較為低調內斂,帶有一點金蔥或銀蔥做變化,而Coohem的質感和做工更是不亞於Thom Browne,擔心Thom Browne的剪裁不合身的人,建議可以考慮從日本品牌開始嘗試,類似的風格但更好搭配也更容易駕馭。
https://www.instagram.com/p/B2n14PRgM0F/
資料來源:WWD