Thom Browne開始發起一連串的活動，像是下周要在Art Basel Miami對大眾開放的藝術展，在曼哈頓要設立的新址，還有就是明年3月在巴黎，他的第一個無性別服裝秀。在時尚圈已經蔚為風潮的中性議題，和大品牌們不分性別的秀場早就已經見怪不怪，現在才跟上的Thom Browne是否腳步太慢了呢?
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這些一連串的活動對Thom Browne來說，都在以不同的方式影響品牌，而這次我們要探討的是明年的早秋系列，可以說是一道模糊男女性別界線的橋樑。其中最明顯可見的就是他稱為”ticket pocket”的夾克和大衣上，配上oevrsized的高腰褲。他說:「這些單品無論是男裝或女裝都是一樣的。我們不會用不同的方式剪裁，也不會為了女性而調整設計，因為我想要的是更加的oversized的效果」。
而Thom Browne這次將大亨小傳的年代氛圍，帶進他最擅長的經典美式運動風，用帶有圖案的手工的花呢和羊毛百褶裙；加上其經典的特殊手感處理的動物圖案，例如: 大象、獅子、斑馬和長頸鹿。但另一方面，反觀外衣的部分，他反而是選用了現代的效果，像是現代化的後加工處理亮面深藍和白色相間條文雨衣，正裝剪裁的羽絨外套…等。
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「在我的這場秀中，我放置了時間最久的裝置藝術作品，它就好像是我這15年所做的事情的延伸，但這是一個單獨的藝術世界，對我來說很有意思，因為它完全是一個獨立的作品，也吸引了完全不同的觀眾。」Browne說到，他也很期待聽到大家對這個秀有怎樣的想法。
[image_gallery images=”84072:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-18.jpg,84051:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-22.jpg,84052:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-23.jpg,84054:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-25.jpg,84071:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-17.jpg,84048:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-19.jpg,84069:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-15.jpg,84068:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-14.jpg,84053:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-24.jpg,84070:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-16.jpg,84050:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-21.jpg,84055:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-1.jpg,84049:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-20.jpg,84066:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-12.jpg,84065:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-11.jpg,84067:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-13.jpg,84062:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-8.jpg,84061:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-7.jpg,84064:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-10.jpg,84056:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-2.jpg,84063:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-9.jpg,84060:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-6.jpg,84059:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-5.jpg,84058:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-4.jpg,84057:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Coohem-3.jpg,” ][/image_gallery]
看到這次的Thom Browne，讓編輯立刻聯想到那個以針織和花呢起家的日本品牌Coohem，色彩更加活潑，但是圖案較為低調內斂，帶有一點金蔥或銀蔥做變化，而Coohem的質感和做工更是不亞於Thom Browne，擔心Thom Browne的剪裁不合身的人，建議可以考慮從日本品牌開始嘗試，類似的風格但更好搭配也更容易駕馭。
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資料來源：WWD