日本最具知名度的設計師之一山本耀司(Yohji Yamamoto),從小受媽媽影響就接觸到了裁縫業,但他不甘於只是為別人做裁縫而不能有自己的主見,因此在畢業後到歐洲學習並開始自己設計衣服,便在1972年建立了同名品牌 Yohji Yamamoto,其風格不按照常規、且不分性別,以寬鬆且黑色為主的誇張剪裁去覆蓋女性的身體曲線,將品牌中性化。
在2017春夏系列中,山本耀司不只使用慣用的黑色,也加入大量藍、灰色,但依舊保留了山本的特色:寬鬆、柔軟、層次感。寬鬆的襯衫搭配過長的大衣和寬褲,即使是正裝也一樣用此手法展現,在山本的設計中,沒有無謂的跟隨潮流只有自己想怎麼設計。以條紋來作點綴讓整系列更有亮點,而這次也有很多配件的出現,綁在頭上和脖子上的緞帶及球鞋、涼鞋、靴子都讓整體搭配更有層次感。仔細看,能從暗色中看到這次多了山水畫的圖案,在幾款衣服的背後甚至有山本耀司本人的自畫像,配上”I am a Slump”、”I am Hurrying、”Yohji is for Hire”的標語,像在嘲諷經濟的蕭條,對時事表達抗議。
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簡潔又有線條卻不過於誇張的山本耀司,以自己的手法融入日本傳統元素將設計帶上國際大舞台並受人喜愛,飄逸的自然垂墜感讓設計更有自己的線條,從設計到模特的呈現,都能看出山本心中不羈的態度,也讓我們不禁佩服今年72歲的山本耀司,也期待往後更多有個性又不一昧跟隨潮流的時裝作品。