Home NEWSFASHION # 平庸者勿試:sulvam FW20 難辨雌雄的超凡

# 平庸者勿試:sulvam FW20 難辨雌雄的超凡

by Sean Chang
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  即將邁入第七個年頭的 sulvam 已有相當成熟的品牌走向,設計師藤田哲平(Teppei Fujita)初期總被冠上「山本耀司打版師」的註解,如今他早已走出自己的定位,運用扎實的裁剪縫車技巧以及大膽思維,讓人們明白打版師的能耐絲毫不亞於品牌設計師。正如品牌名稱的拉丁文 — 「即興演奏」,藤田哲平沒有任何人的影子,sulvam 就是以和弦行進為基底塑造而成的即興旋律。

 

  本季 sulvam 以「平凡」(ordinary)為主題,希望讓穿著服飾走在街上的每個人認真思考:「『凡庸』或『獨到』,你今天穿上身的是哪個?」,將標籤類別簡單明瞭地以二分法為區隔。

 

[image_gallery images=”86534:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-37.jpg,86518:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-33.jpg,86517:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-32.jpg,86516:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-31.jpg,86515:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-30.jpg,86514:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-29.jpg,86513:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-28.jpg,86512:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-27.jpg,86511:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-26.jpg,86510:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-25.jpg,86509:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-24.jpg,86508:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-23.jpg,86507:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-22.jpg,86506:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-21.jpg,86505:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-20.jpg,86504:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-19.jpg,86503:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Sulvam-Men-FW20-Paris-18.jpg,” ][/image_gallery]

 

  sulvam AW20 風格相當極端,包含一系列極長連身裙裝、連身背心和大衣,絲絨面料與格紋布料的套裝,以及帶有皮毛質感的蓬鬆夾克;寬窄比例不一,似乎沒有規則可循,在這些個性鮮明的作品中甚至還能見到線條復古的雙排扣西裝。

 

  若分別欣賞各個單品,當中幾項似乎看似平凡、猶如日常服裝。但當你將本系列放在一個平面觀察,便會發現即便是相同元素,卻被套用在各個作品上、呈現出與原先截然不同的意象;更教人訝異的是,你將難以辨別其性別歸類!

 

# 平庸者勿試:sulvam FW20 難辨雌雄的超凡 10

 

  誠如品牌根基,這些元素好比是一首樂曲架構,獨立欣賞時它們都是爵士樂的「標準曲」,藤田哲平運用其技巧和靈感帶入屬於本季主題的和弦,並偏激地遊走於規則框架的內外,最終成為 sulvam。而藤田哲平也開宗明義地告訴聆聽者,他是個有能力炫技的演奏家,這些作品就是為了成就非凡而打造。

 

# 平庸者勿試:sulvam FW20 難辨雌雄的超凡 11

 

  “Dress with intention. Walk with purpose.“,何不承認自己就是努力著不被貼上「凡庸」標籤、極力向眾人展現獨特的自我價值呢?

 

# 平庸者勿試:sulvam FW20 難辨雌雄的超凡 12

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