Home NEWSFASHION # 2020AW風向突變:連視街頭風格為品牌根基的OAMC都倒戈了?

# 2020AW風向突變:連視街頭風格為品牌根基的OAMC都倒戈了?

by Abbie Cheng
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先前說到Off-white的設計師回歸後表示,街頭風格即將成為過去,但也是有人不這麼認為的。今天我們就要來分享近年來在男裝領域非常出名的OAMC,他們正是以streetstyle為品牌的基礎起家的呢! 若說他是一個從街頭潮流到時尚和精品的跨領域品牌也當之無愧。

 

[image_gallery images=”86270:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/OAMC-40.jpg,86271:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/OAMC-41.jpg,86272:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/OAMC-42.jpg,86269:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/OAMC-39.jpg,86268:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/OAMC-38.jpg,” ][/image_gallery]

 

OAMC是一個有點傳奇又有趣的美國品牌,成立於2013年,很多人好奇OAMC這個名字怎麼來的?總覺得是富含甚麼深層的意義,或是一段口號的縮寫,其實不然,OAMC毫無任何特殊意義,但設計師透過每一季的主題會重新詮釋這四個字母,例如2017年秋冬系列就以「On A Midnight Clouded」作為設計理念,藉由抽象的概念來傳達設計師對於隱形緘默暴力的反抗之意。

 

 

品牌成立之初,在商品都尚未發行的情況下就引發熱烈討論,還集結了眾多粉絲。為什麼呢? 因為品牌的創立人,正是來自Supreme的前首席設計師Luke Meier和Carhartt WIP前設計總監Arnaud Faeh,Luke Meier一共在Supreme服務了八年之久,也因為這樣開啟了和Arnaud Faeh的不解之緣。至於兩人合作的契機,始於過去Supreme和Carhartt WIP的一次聯名合作,那次的合作進而激發出將Carhartt WIP擅長的工作服以高端製作技術呈現的想法,因此OAMC也應運而生。OAMC將Carhartt WIP原本廣受歡迎的款式採用高端功能性的布料,以獨特的技術將工作服改造另一種樣貌,讓原本單調的工作服看起來充滿未來感,且擁有精品大牌的質感。

 

 

品牌成立後短短的幾年間,就憑藉著兩人過往的經歷和人脈突破重圍,在國際男裝市場中佔有一席之地並脫穎而出。但在這看似簡單又風光的背後,他們卻是經過了一番的苦戰,尤其是負責設計的Luke Meier在與製造商的溝通上吃盡了苦頭,因為與他們合作的都是擁有豐富經驗的義大利一流工廠,光是要說服他們依照OAMC的全新設計理念去執行,還要為此投資新的技術,是一件相當具有挑戰性的工作。也因為這樣才能夠創造出OAMC這種,兼具機能性及時尚感的高品質設計。

 

 

Luke Meier曾說過: 現在的街頭潮流已經帶給大家一種既定的刻版印象,但他認為streetstyle是一切的起源,是時尚產業中最具創意及原創性的源頭,因為來自街頭的次文化最能夠真實的反應文化本來的樣貌,許多來自街頭的東西,像是音樂、滑板和塗鴉文化等,也都無形的影響著時尚領域。加上其過往在Supreme的工作經驗中學習到的,不因為商業利潤而在品質上妥協,OAMC使用許多嶄新的材質和技術,都需要成本和開發費用,因此讓成本無法降低進而影響售價,但他們希望做的是可以穿一輩子的衣服,雖然價格較高但也能帶給消費者相對的體驗。

 

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而剛在巴黎時裝周發表2020秋冬新品的OAMC,和Off-white不約而同的都專注在高級訂製的經典輪廓上,比起以往更加的低調簡約,但也同時更成熟穩重。將街頭風格融合在經典剪裁中,用高級的面料和精緻做工平衡streetstyle的次文化感,透露出一種模糊的、已經存在於品牌靈魂中的街頭感。

 

資料來源: WWD VOGUE

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