衣服就是攜帶式的房間!無論在何處都可以把自己安全的包裹起來!
設計師長見佳祐(keisuke Nagami)以「如待在房間般安穩舒適的中性服飾」為概念成立時裝品牌HATRA,而這位「科技宅男」早在2014年就與創意團隊KORI-SHOW及福井縣歷史悠久的紡織廠KAYTAY TEXINNO─三方合作推出攜帶式暖桌「kotatsu parka」,甚至使用高彈性防水面料,不用擔心吃飯時打翻飯菜,還可以連接到家用的被爐桌上!(如此宅的「未來生活感」大概只有長見佳祐可以做到了。)
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為什麼形容長見佳祐是科技宅男呢?
除了「宅」的概念外,HATRA還有個別於其他品牌的特點:從設計、打版到製作完成都在電腦上進行。透過3D軟體直接模擬成品樣貌,以消除美學想像的差異,同時能減少開發服裝時耗損的物料。而這樣的剪裁非單只是立體廓型,更考量到面料與工藝的細節,重新詮釋「科技、未來」也打破生硬的既定印象,在日常也能夠舒適著裝。
身份是服裝設計師,科技宅男,還是藝術家?
成立於2010年的HATRA,兩年後便以2011年秋冬系列參與東京都現代美術館的展覽,與ISSEY MIYAKE、Yohji Yamamoto、Comme des Garçons等作品齊齊排列。而除了美術館與劇場,HATRA還曾與《新世紀福音戰士》聯名,上季更找來AI平面藝術家 Yuma Kishi 合作一系列實驗性的影片。作為時裝品牌,HATRA的獨特之處也在於其跨領域的合作,不斷探索新事物去打造自己的實驗室。
2020 AW:當AI人工智慧遇上時裝設計
「我們的目標是製造可持續且舒適的衣服,但我對超出人類想像力的數字工具(如AI)來製作衣服感興趣。」─ 長見佳祐(keisuke Nagami)
長見佳祐表示他以12年前出版的一本鳥類書為靈感,將「STUDY SKINS」作為本季秋冬系列的主題,如往季作品呈現的灰、米白等中性色為基調,再以面料和細節來模仿鳥類的質感。而這次HATRA與Synflux合作,以設計零浪費為目的,將原本製作圖案時2D和3D流量會造成的織物損耗,透過創建一種算法“AUBIK”來製作針織面料,同時使用AI學習約200萬張動物圖像,再將虛構的鳥類圖案印在服裝上。
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HATRA 2020秋冬展示會至3月31日已開放預約,到不了現場沒關係,長見佳祐這位科技宅男也為大家準備了3D「鳥巢」線上體驗(?)