有些品牌的設計靈感來自電影、藝術或音樂的啟發,但或許小森啓二郎 (Keijiro Komori) 的眼中只有衣服,更因此將「舒適的穿著感」放在優先考量,透過最好的材質、最細膩的工法,並以適合亞洲的面料與剪裁輪廓來詮釋他的服裝美學。
2011年創立的服飾品牌 COMOLI,其最神秘的特點在於品牌並沒有經營社群,但在 instagram 上卻擁有將近 13 萬個 hashtag。讓人不禁懷疑這個衣服上沒有任何 LOGO、價位也不算低的極簡服飾究竟在紅什麼?
設計師小森啓二郎曾說過:「在我年輕時去了海外的展示會,並且受到許多時裝品牌的影響,但我想知道我為什麼一直渴望西服,所以我必須往下一步走了。」原先只是做著流行服飾的小森啓二郎,開始思考自身所在的城市,關於日本的溫度、濕度,亞洲人的身形以及與日本街道相匹配的服飾。
而這般以生活為原點的細膩考量,讓 COMOLI 即便沒有搶眼與繁複的設計、不制訂每一季的設計理念,甚至不特意追隨流行元素,卻也能夠受到消費者與業界人士的讚賞。選品店 BIOTOP 的主理人更形容道:「從讀 《POPEYE》雜誌的年輕人到五十多歲的人,各式各樣的人們都會來店裡購買 COMOLI 的服飾。無論是服裝剪裁或者設計師本身,他們都喜歡。而這個品牌無論穿在誰身上,都能讓他們感覺像是自己。」
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「即便在夏天出汗時也能保持透氣乾燥,剪裁不會太貼身,吹著風時很舒服……我認為這對日本人來說是一件舒適的衣服。」
2000年初期之後,當人們可以輕鬆在網路商店瀏覽與購買商品,似乎全世界有許多品牌都以易於理解的設計為優先考量,當然商品能賣出去很重要,但若僅僅是展示這些,那麼我們又怎麼能夠體會服裝穿著時的舒適美好?思考人們何時、何地,以及任何場合都能夠穿得輕鬆、好看,且不會隨著時間流逝而被淘汰的服飾,我想這就是 COMOLI 最大的魅力所在。
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(コモリシャツ Comoli Shirt)
剪裁立體、寬鬆舒適,讓眾多大廠都爭先恐後、仿效學習 — COMOLI 真正的「一件襯衫」
Via / comoli.jp