Bottega Veneta發布了2020早秋系列的男女裝,用許多亮色點綴帶出活潑感,乍看之下男女裝雖說整體風格顏色,抑或是款式雷同,但細看過後你會發現,設計師在面料上下了功夫,選用了不同的面料做出區隔性,清楚的劃分了男女裝的界線。這一季Daniel Lee依舊沒有過多的綴飾,但卻將2019年在時尚圈引起風潮的CASSETTE延續到服裝上,成為了外衣的靈感來源。
[image_gallery images=”85314:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-5.jpg,85313:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-4.jpg,85315:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-6.jpg,85316:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-7.jpg,85317:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-8.jpg,85310:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-1.jpg,85311:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-2.jpg,85312:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-3.jpg,” ][/image_gallery]
這個在2018年接下Bottega Veneta設計總監一職的年輕英國設計師Daniel Lee,定義新的 Bottega Veneta 是乾淨、精準、俐落的,他表示:「力量、感性和活在當下;Bottega Veneta 的精神在於定義一個新觀點,一種看待事務的新視野,進而顛覆其現有的狀態。」在整個時尚圈普遍不看好,認為已經走下坡又了無新意的品牌,而這個擁有豐富經驗且畢業於中央聖馬丁,年僅33歲的設計師領導之下,讓整個品牌起死回生,拋棄墨守成規的作法,讓Bottega Veneta在2019年成為了Instagram上的熱門話題,其中放大格紋的編織包CASSETTE和有雲朵包之稱的手拿包,可說是時尚圈裡人手一個,尤其是CASSETEE的中性設計,在時裝周期間男女名人都有眾多人使用,出鏡率極高。
[image_gallery images=”85349:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-40.jpg,85352:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-43.jpg,85351:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-42.jpg,85350:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-41.jpg,85348:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-39.jpg,85347:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-38.jpg,85346:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-37.jpg,85345:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-36.jpg,85337:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-28.jpg,85338:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-29.jpg,85339:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-30.jpg,85340:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-31.jpg,85341:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-32.jpg,85342:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-33.jpg,85343:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-34.jpg,85344:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-35.jpg,85336:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-27.jpg,85335:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-26.jpg,85334:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-25.jpg,85333:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-24.jpg,85332:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-23.jpg,85331:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-22.jpg,85330:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-21.jpg,85329:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-20.jpg,85321:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-12.jpg,85322:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-13.jpg,85323:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-14.jpg,85324:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-15.jpg,85325:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-16.jpg,85326:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-17.jpg,85327:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-18.jpg,85328:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-19.jpg,85320:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-11.jpg,85319:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-10.jpg,85318:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-9.jpg,85309:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-67.jpg,85308:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-66.jpg,85307:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-65.jpg,85306:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-64.jpg,85305:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-63.jpg,85297:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-55.jpg,85298:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-56.jpg,85299:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-57.jpg,85300:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-58.jpg,85301:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-59.jpg,85302:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-60.jpg,85303:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-61.jpg,85304:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-62.jpg,85296:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-54.jpg,85295:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-53.jpg,85286:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-44.jpg,85294:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-52.jpg,85293:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-51.jpg,85292:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-50.jpg,85291:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-49.jpg,85290:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-48.jpg,85289:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-47.jpg,85288:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-46.jpg,85287:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/BV-2020-Pre-fall-45.jpg,” ][/image_gallery]
男裝的部分選擇用更簡潔的方式呈現,加上帶有機能感的布料,卻絲毫沒有街頭潮流感,創造出年輕時尚又同時富有高質感的款式是一大特色,運動褲和風衣外套,使用傳統運動服中會使用的副料和包邊設計,卻用流線線條帶出品牌的設計。這一季也使用許多皮革和丹寧,男女裝的表現上都使用部分皮革做點綴,更有整件的皮革風衣和短褲。
[image_gallery images=”85356:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/47.jpg,85381:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/40.jpg,85383:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/42.jpg,85382:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/41.jpg,85380:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/39.jpg,85379:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/38.jpg,85378:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/37.jpg,85377:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/36.jpg,85376:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/33.jpg,85368:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/19-1.jpg,85370:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/25-1.jpg,85371:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/26-1.jpg,85369:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/22-1.jpg,85372:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/29-1.jpg,85373:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/30-1.jpg,85374:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/31-1.jpg,85375:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/32-1.jpg,85360:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/4-1.jpg,85361:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/7-1.jpg,85362:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/10-2.jpg,85363:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/11-1.jpg,85364:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/12-1.jpg,85365:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/13-1.jpg,85366:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/16-1.jpg,85367:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/18-1.jpg,85359:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/1-1.jpg,85358:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/49.jpg,85357:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/48.jpg,85355:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/46.jpg,85354:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/45.jpg,” ][/image_gallery]
女裝則是有較多的針織和延伸出的流蘇元素,無論是使用平織或針織,看似樸素卻在上身做了鏤空設計,抑或是利用織物本身密度所創造出的半透明感,能夠和其他單品做疊加或是撞色的效果,讓穿搭使用上風格更多變,視覺效果加乘。同樣的針織,在日本新銳設計師品牌Malamute身上也能看到,但多了幾分柔美和日式的內斂,富含抽象的緹花,加上設計師豐富的織品背景經驗,在織物上能夠一直不斷的創新,無論是結合運用開發出新的花形,或是絕美的針織蕾絲,優雅細膩的同時,加上簡約的線條;設計師也對金屬的副料和配件飾品開發非常有研究,同樣使用抽象幾何的風格做為基礎,配合柔性垂墜的針織品,柔中帶剛正是Malamute的特色,讓她在2018首次登上東京時裝周後,頻頻出現在各大雜誌和活動秀場上,還成為了GQ Japan在岡山舉辦的秀場上唯一的女裝品牌,可見品牌的多元性之高,能夠靈活運用的空間也更多。
圖片來源: VOGUE