Home NEWSFASHION # Band of Outsiders:命運多舛的改組之路

# Band of Outsiders:命運多舛的改組之路

by Abbie Cheng
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創立於2004年,由主理人Scott Sternberg所成立的紐約品牌,曾經是時尚圈討論的話題中心,除了非科班出身的品牌創始人兼設計師曾被拿來和Junya Watanabe相比,因為他們時常帶給時尚圈驚喜。加上Scott Sternberg的藝人經紀人背景,品牌總是能夠找來當紅明星為其拍攝形象照和代言廣告,讓品牌的知名度更加遠播。其對行銷的操作手法加上品牌定位在當時最受歡迎的”美式學院風”,讓品牌在男裝的地位扶搖直上,且不可撼動。

 

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可隨者消費型態的改變和時尚圈的快速步調,Band of outsiders並未跟上腳步,而是墨守成規的活在自己的舒適圈,雖說品牌已經奠定了基礎,且風格強烈有識別度,但還是敵不過經濟危機,在2015年宣告熄燈,而創辦人Scott Sternberg也離開了品牌,沉寂一年之後品牌重組再出發,被人稱為是Band of outsiders 2.0,請來了曾在 Dries Van Noten、Louis Vuitton 和 H&M 工作過的北歐設計師組合 – Niklaus Hodel、Matthias Weber 與 Florian Feder。但推出第一個2017年春夏系列,就獲得一片的批評聲浪,有媒體說”沒有Scott Sternberg的Band of outsiders已經失去了原本的樣貌。”品牌一開始的學院風蕩然無存,對於無人買單且一片不看好的情況,品牌的決定是立即再改組,且宣布2017春夏新品將不會販售也不會進行生產。

 

 

之後的Band of outsiders 3.0設計團隊則由曾經製作多場時裝秀,並擔任過 Vetements 品牌顧問的Daniel Hettmann,和擁有倫敦Savile Row傳統訂製經驗的設計師 Angelo Van Mol接手設計總監一職,帶領一群 「專家團隊」 跟優秀的產品開發師、資深買手與極強的製作小組。並於2017秋冬發表該團隊的第一季設計。品牌希望找回其根源 – 加州的學院美學,但和品牌DNA融合的方法,還是需要多一點的時間探索才能夠結合。

 

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要重新打造一個原本已有強烈識別度和高知名度的品牌本就不容易,除了需要花時間對品牌做全面性的了解以外,更要懂得如何能不受品牌既有風格限制的同時,又能保有品牌DNA且受原本的支持者愛戴。2020的秋冬系列,Angelo Van Mol表示,他對色彩的使用上更有信心了,所以加入了更多的高彩度色彩,但款式上選擇保守的搭配方式,漁夫帽和休閒的學院運動風做搭配,加上一些每個小男孩時期都經歷過的-童軍元素,相較於Scott時期,現在更多了幾分活潑和街頭感,看的出來品牌正在小心翼翼的從經典的安全牌中求變,也努力和時代接軌。

 

 

 

 

 

 

資料來源: WWD   VOGUE

 

 

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