sacai 成立至今經歷了二十年的貫徹耕耘，終於在近幾季開始讓人“真正”地將目光投注到它的身上，交融軍裝與民俗 ; 針織與科技面料，創意總監 阿部千登勢(Chitose Abe) 說：HYBRID(混種) 是我們品牌的特色與核心價值，目的在於設計、生產出不曾有過的單品概念，即具備高度原創性的存在......。「HYBRID」這個日本設計圈內相當愛用的單詞，最常被運用在油電混合轎車的廣告宣傳上，服裝方面，則專指向如 sacai 混合了多種面料、風格元素、剪裁的服飾，在山本耀司、川久保玲、三宅一生等日本時裝三傑打開對世界的服裝市場之後，相繼發芽竄起，接力影響的不論是 sacai 、 kolor 或是 MIHARAYASUHIRO，皆以此 HYBRID 的設計手法，顛覆玩轉服裝常理的認知。
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↑sacai 在最新的 2019秋冬 可以看到有相當多源自軍裝的元素加入
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↑Kolor 則是融入運動、機能質感到秋冬系列裡，在忙碌的工作場合置入鮮豔對比的呈現手法相當有趣
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↑MIHARAYASUHIRO，三原康裕近期與 Nigel Cabourn 的合作鞋款也是話題不斷，其作品向街頭語言靠攏，雖不及 Undercover 那般的聲名大噪，
但在細節處理跟用料的精彩程度還是令人醉心
現在我們能看到這些品牌話題十足，但品牌會老，人也會離開，當上述龍頭走下神壇之後，誰來延續想必將成為被討論的話題。近期倒是有些日本新銳品牌不約而同地讓人嗅到幾分 “HYBRID Brand” 的架勢，他們分別以不一樣的角度切入服飾，交錯融合概念創意，或許值得多加關注。
承襲 Issey Miyake 的布料工藝：Mame Kurogouchi
別於 sacai 女裝取經男裝輪廓再加以拼湊的做法，黒河内真衣子(Maiko Kurogouchi) 在品牌 Mame Kurogouchi 所執行的則是更細緻柔和的女性形象。2010 年成立，並在 2017 年獲得 Fashion Prize of Tokyo 大賞，從 Issey Miyake 旗下獨立出來的 黒河内真衣子 ，在對服裝輪廓的掌握度上已經毋庸置疑，帶有透明感的柔軟紡織布料是她最經常使用的媒材，搭配精緻醒目的刺繡，其優雅的形象為喜愛 HYBRID 手法，卻對陽剛氣較重的 sacai 望之怯步的女性有了另一個十分完美的選擇。
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而另一項為人樂道的地方在於做工，如果平常喜愛 White Mountaineering 精準的剪裁、車工，那 Mame Kurogouchi 對於看不見的細節所傾注的精神也同樣有著不亞於 相澤陽介(Yosuke Aizaw) 的偏執。如今 Mame Kurogouchi 也跟隨前輩們的腳步，加入了巴黎時裝周的盛會，並用融合傳統工藝、當代美感的視覺在時裝圈獲得極大的歡迎。
接班 FACETASM 玩味輪廓：Body Song
學生時期在有「洋式裁縫的研究指導所」稱號的 Doreme 學院進修三年，青木俊典(Shunsuke Aoki）在 2010 年開啟個人獨立服飾品牌的篇章，其名稱 Body Song 受 2003 年由 Radiohead 監製的電影《生之頌（Bodysong）》啟發，電影內容緊扣著人類趣味性與生死關係，青木俊典 將之延伸成為以服飾為主體，串連音樂、藝術、設計的概念，並以「即興創作」為主軸，發展不受刻板印象限制的中性服飾。
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從異材質拼接、老品重置、布料開發、圖像創作，從 Body Song 的單品裡可以直接看見不同創作領域對設計師本身的深遠影響，品牌也因此受到音樂創作者的青睞並與之合作，更在 2018 年得到TOKYO FASHION AWARD 時尚大獎的肯定，確實值得被投以更多關注眼光。
Body Song_
https://reurl.cc/z6n8N
下一個 sacai：elephant TRIBAL fabrics
關於下一個 sacai 的問題眾說紛紜，據聞日本每年會有 60~70 個新銳日本設計師品牌進入市場，可見其競爭之激烈，再觀察過眾多品牌之後，我們認為，輪廓接近，手法也最相似的，終究還是 2013 年成立的 elephant TRIBAL fabrics 最具 sacai 的接班姿態。即便核心為 「若有似無之服飾」，設計師 君塚涼太(Ryota kimiduka）卻將軍事單品細節隨季度帶入民族、運動等元素，設計出能夠有刃有餘的製造豐富版型層次的服裝，在視覺印象裡，可並不如概念所述那麼單純。
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而從最初簡單的色系、剪裁，到現在越趨複雜且多樣的變化 ( 2019ss 好像也讓人有 kolor 般的即視感），雖然目前在世界服裝圈裡還算是小眾品牌，卻也是走在逐漸展露頭角的路上，如果不久的將來 HYBRID Style 真的如預測一樣成為主流，那手法已經顯露成熟姿態的 elephant TRIBAL fabrics 必然就會是備受注目的實力品牌。
從 sacai 近兩年向「街頭」聯名提升話題，進而將關注度拉到一個高峰之後，HYBRID 似乎就已經有著勢不可擋的趨勢正在醞釀，而除了在檯面上的那些炸子雞們需要持續期待之外，今回介紹這幾個十年之內逐漸竄起的後起之秀，或許正是下個大勢品牌的候選名單！