Home NEWSFASHIONApparel # 當代的 19 世紀工裝:SHINYA KOZUKA 2020 全新秋冬系列曝光

# 當代的 19 世紀工裝:SHINYA KOZUKA 2020 全新秋冬系列曝光

by Sean Chang
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[image_gallery images=”88279:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook10.jpg,88280:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook11.jpg,88281:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook12.jpg,88282:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook13.jpg,88283:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook15.jpg,88284:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook16.jpg,88285:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook18.jpg,88286:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook19.jpg,88287:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook20.jpg,88288:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook23.jpg,” ][/image_gallery]

 

  畢業於倫敦中央聖馬丁學院的小塚信哉(Shinya Kozuka)在 2014 年創建同名品牌,並於 2018 年獲得東京新人設計師時尚大賞(Tokyo New Fashion Designer Grand Prix)頭銜,由此便能大略明白小塚信哉的堅強實力。

 

  有別於一般的街頭工裝風格,SHINYA KOZUKA 更注重剪裁及東洋元素。擅長以寬鬆與垂墜手法呈現布料立體感,並以 baggy pants 在品牌當中融入叛逆氣息。近來 SHINYA KOZUKA 密切與工作服飾老字號 Dickies 合作聯名,將 Dickies 帶入時裝層次,具有極高話題性,也讓 SHINYA KOZUKA 與「純正工裝」有了更緊密的羈絆。

 

[image_gallery images=”88289:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook1.jpg,88290:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook2.jpg,88291:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook3.jpg,88292:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook4.jpg,88293:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook5.jpg,88294:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook6.jpg,88295:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook7.jpg,88296:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook8.jpg,88297:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/shinyakozuka-2020aw-lookbook9.jpg,” ][/image_gallery]

 

  這次 SHINYA KOZUKA 公佈了 AW20 季度最新形象照,可以看見 baggy pants 依然佔了不小篇幅,但卻增加了許多剪裁更為修身的作品。本季主題圍繞在防塵外套(duster)、水手外套及工作夾克等等 19 世紀工業化時代便已存在的服裝,SHINYA KOZUKA 選以當代材料及版型重新打造,包含了 Kvadrat 羊毛混紡彩色織物、仿舊染色沙丁布以及純素皮革等最新技術的物料。

 

  當中還可見到不少有趣元素,例如羊毛開襟衫及高領毛衣採用了大面積印刷,使服裝宛如成為藝術畫作,呈現了古代城鎮風貌;本次的包款也同樣別具趣味,不同尺寸的包袋可以自行串連組合,讓單調的斜肩包瞬間有了複合的色彩與造型,實用性也大大提升。

 

  將百年前的工作服飾以現代素材製成,卻也將 Dickies 的正統工裝布料改以更為前衛的樣式呈現,SHINYA KOZUKA 在時代與文化結合的功力有目共睹,也讓現在為數眾多的工裝愛好者們有了更獨特的品味選擇。

 

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