2020 Spring and Summer的倫敦時裝周上,眾所期待的英國設計師品牌 JW Anderson,秀場的布景和編排讓觀眾又再次掉進他的想像世界。
https://www.instagram.com/p/B27BtGIJ7TM/
JW Anderson想必大家應該都不陌生,畢竟他已經和 Uniqlo 合作多次,還和 Convers 出過聯名,已經算是擁有一定的知名度。這個由 LOEWE 創意總監 – Jonathan Anderson 創立的同名品牌,其實早在 2007 年就已經成立,在 2010 年正式推出女裝系列,隨後在 2013 年接下 LOEWE 的創意總監一職,又在2015年同時獲得英國時尚大獎的最佳男裝設計和最佳女裝設計獎! 一路上備受關注聲勢也水漲船高。更被英國媒體譽為鬼才設計師 Christopher Kane 的接班人。
Jonathan Anderson 的創作靈感其實就是每天的所見所聞,或是把一些天馬行空的想法具體化,大家都說他的設計風格詭譎多變,其實他每次在設計時的想法都非常的單純,只是想要顛覆傳統,將品牌植入文化中,因為他認為服裝應該回到服裝的本身或是成為生活中的一部分,而不是重塑或是華而不實的樣貌,他認為這樣才能夠賦予穿衣者更多的空間去激發想像力,也能進一步的玩轉服飾!
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由於他不按照牌理出牌的風格,和源源不絕的創意靈感,也讓品牌在短時間內迅速走紅,因為他在各個聯名系列的活躍,也讓大家看到了品牌更多元的樣貌。2020 春夏,相較之前的中性風格,這次比以往更加具有女人味,像是希臘女神的飄逸長裙,星際大戰的少女戰服….等,他也再一次的用天馬行空的小巧思和細膩優美的剪裁征服了時尚界。一開始進到秀場,會看到地上都是透明玻璃盒子,裡面裝著的是一些日常生活中可見的小東西,仔細看會發現有衣物、乾燥花、泰迪熊…等,其實這些都是加拿大藝術家 Liz Magor 的作品。
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這次的一大亮點莫過於每個模特兒都有配戴的水晶耳環,分量感十足,其折射出的光線,和地面上擺設的玻璃盒相呼應,水晶也延伸到了鞋子上,帶出一種未來感,但又不過分誇張。這一季整體風格是較為柔美,布料的選擇上大多為垂墜感重或是輕透的材質,做出不對稱的希臘女神長裙,外面疊加上水晶編織的胸飾,多了一分層次感的同時,也為整體設計找到重點,具有畫龍點睛的效果。除了希臘女神風以外,還有另一個就是遊牧民族 (部落風)的款式,利用絲巾、綁帶和麻神、流蘇等元素,加上皮革小包和飄逸的外衣,融合了古老與未來。
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而這幾年 JW Anderson 大受藝人和網路名人愛戴的包款,也已經被新的設計取代,這一季棒球帽包和鍊條包依舊存在,但多了竹編和流蘇包,簡約的設計和黑白為主的色彩,讓每一件時髦的單品都能化做永恆的經典款,這就是 JW Anderson 的魅力所在! 但在 JW Anderson 2020SS 的系列上,編輯感覺看到了日本品牌 HATRA 的未來、中性感,還有現在當紅的 AKIKOAOKI,其不過份女性化的設計,但又隱隱約約的暗示了女性化的特徵,還有多層次的配件疊加和垂墜飄逸的長裙,也許這樣風格才是更多現代女性所追求,也更能駕馭的吧?
資料來源:VOGUE