規模雖小,卻視野宏大,如同樹苗一般,經過灌溉、吸收,終有一日會成為擁茂盛枝芽的巨林。2007 年開始,由 藤田宏行(Hiroyuki Fujita) 主導的 JieDa,就是以此為根基,一步一步的延展出屬於自己的品牌之路。
藤田宏行/ Hiroyuki Fujita
1979 年出生於日本島根,在時裝界耕耘了十年的時間,在 2007 年展開 JieDa 的活動,並持續至今。同時也開設自家選物店 KIKUNOBU,將理念延伸至服裝設計之外,以全面的角度拓展出自己的時尚叢林。
將自身比喻作樹,藤田宏行 的目標是透過品牌,將概念傳達到四方人士的眼前,直至穿上身,感受 JieDa 多方收納的心血結晶。要廣泛的取得共鳴最迅速的作法可想而知 — 從觀察街頭做起。在創作初期,當時正值日本 Skinny Fit 的街頭大勢,JieDa 也是以此為本製作服裝,不過當時形象與觀點尚未成熟,導致關注度並不高,直到近五年間窄身式微,取而代之的闊身版型躍升為服裝顯學,JieDa 才好像真正的找到了屬於自己的天地,正式在日本時裝界立下品牌旗幟,大展身手。
2016 春夏對 JieDa 來說是個轉折,揮棄了過往窄管的剪裁,藤田宏行 端出一個袖籠寬鬆,具垂墜感的系列,顏色簡約、平實,算是有點曖昧且低調地宣告品牌即將邁入新的紀元,到了 2016 秋冬,袖籠的結構就更誇張的地刻意被強調出來,在版型上是筆者認為相當突出的一次表現。而後的季度,JieDa 就在這樣的基礎上開始多方嘗試,並且每次都緊抓著當季流行趨勢不放,材質的運用也逐漸成熟多元,慢慢的已經有了品牌核心的穩固枝幹。
[image_gallery images="72296:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/JieDa_000.jpg,72297:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/JieDa_001.jpg,72298:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/JieDa_003.jpg,72299:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/JieDa_004.jpg,72300:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/JieDa_005.jpg,72301:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/JieDa_006.jpg,72302:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/JieDa_008.jpg,72303:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/JieDa_009.jpg," ][/image_gallery]
↑2016ss
[image_gallery images="72304:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/1-2.jpg,72305:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/2-3.jpg,72306:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/3-1.jpg,72307:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/4-1.jpg,72308:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/5.jpg,72309:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/6.jpg,72310:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/7.jpg,72311:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/9.jpg,72312:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/11-1.jpg,72313:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/13-1.jpg,72314:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/15-1.jpg,72315:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/16-1.jpg,72316:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/17-1.jpg,72317:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/18-1.jpg,72318:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/19.jpg,72319:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/20-1.jpg,72320:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/21-1.jpg,72321:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/22-1.jpg,72322:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/24-1.jpg," ][/image_gallery]
↑2016aw
設計之外,藤田宏行 也同樣把理念擴展到自家 Select Shop 的事業上。「KIKUNOBU」(菊信),分別在東京、大阪以及設計師故鄉島根縣都有設店,所集合的品牌算是氣味相投,elephant TRIBAL fabrics、Sasquatchfabrix.、FACETASM 都在其中,創議發想之外也運用商業銷售,像集結聯盟一樣,把 藤田宏行 個人的理想直接的對應到消費者的層面。
KIKUNOBU TOKYO
KIKUNOBU OSAKA
KIKUNOBU SHIMANE
[我希望能更加牢固地確立 JieDa 的原創性,並將其傳播到世界各地。現實面來說,我也希望能從中得到更多的銷售管道]
然而本次的東京時裝週過後,藤田宏行 是更有機會將理念放到更遠大的世界舞台上。頂著 2019 TOKYO FASHION AWARD 得主光環,JieDa 在本季的呈現上相當大膽,更多的 Hybrid 、以及招牌的敏銳流行觀察力(Be Mine 001:戰術背心怎麼來?除了 Junya Watanabe 之外還有很多時尚選擇!),整體是傳達了更加完整到位的世界觀,自然獲得評審們的青睞。
[image_gallery images="72365:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb40.jpg,72364:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb39.jpg,72363:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb38.jpg,72362:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb37.jpg,72361:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb36.jpg,72360:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb35.jpg,72359:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb34.jpg,72358:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb33.jpg,72357:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb32.jpg,72356:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb31.jpg,72355:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb30.jpg,72354:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb29.jpg,72353:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb28.jpg,72352:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb27.jpg,72351:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb26.jpg,72350:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb25.jpg,72349:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb24.jpg,72348:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb23.jpg,72347:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb22.jpg,72346:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb21.jpg,72345:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb20.jpg,72344:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb19.jpg,72343:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb18.jpg,72342:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb17.jpg,72341:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb16.jpg,72340:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb15.jpg,72339:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb14.jpg,72338:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb13.jpg,72337:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb12.jpg,72336:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb11.jpg,72335:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb10.jpg,72334:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb09.jpg,72333:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb08.jpg,72332:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb07.jpg,72331:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb06.jpg,72330:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb05.jpg,72329:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb04.jpg,72328:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb03.jpg,72327:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb02.jpg,72326:https://ldope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/thumb01.jpg," ][/image_gallery]
↑2019aw
在受訪時,藤田宏行 也在提及了獲獎的興奮之餘,亦表示出對接下來品牌走向的緊張,對他來說,那些現下世界活躍的日本設計師及品牌的成功先例令他感到相當尊敬與開心,如今 JieDa 也將躍上 Pitti Uomo、Paris Fashion Week 展演,有望成為當中的一份子,不過與此同時,更令 藤田宏行 堅定的,還是穩穩抓住自己的核心價值,那才會是他、 JieDa 以至 KIKUNOBU 能否在眾多設計師、品牌、流行文化裡從中脫穎而出的關鍵。