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# Gosha Rubchinskiy:2016 SS 後蘇聯時代的次文化新視野

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來自俄國的當紅設計師 ,自2008年起便聲名大噪,不但以年輕世代的東歐色彩文化成功地融合高級時裝,身兼攝影師的他更於2012年受到川久保玲親自提攜、與 COMME des GARÇONS推出聯乘,在時尚圈大受歡迎,其後也陸續與 Vans、Camper 等品牌合作。而這樣一個大受注目的 Hi-street 品牌、擅長將叛逆的次文化與街頭理念縫入服裝中,將中國與俄羅斯國旗結合作為品牌識別,也相當突破性。

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來到本季2016 春夏,主題引用自作家George Orwell的反烏托邦小說《1984》,以80年代為創作背景,將當時的復古運動服為基礎重新打造,透過 Gosha Rubchinskiy 經後蘇聯地下文化洗禮的觀點來詮釋,一方面為了記錄冷戰時期的鐵幕 (Iron Curtain) 特有的裝扮,在設計上注入了共產主義符號和印花圖案、顏色上參考當時藝術家 Alexander Rodchenko 的海報創作。而1984字樣也以滿載形式呈現在單品中,極力堅持他標誌性的設計美學,可看出這次特別以大量錘子和鐮刀的貫穿在整個系列,Gosha Rubchinskiy春夏系列再次為 Street Fashion 帶來不少新鮮感,有興趣的人不妨看看2016春夏秀的後台影像。

INFO:Gosha Rubchinskiy

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