這個因 Lady Gaga 和權志龍 ( G.D.) 而進入眾人視線品牌,其充滿獨特個人風采又前衛的設計,躍上了國際舞台的同時,也受到許多名人青睞,像是國際超模 Gigi Hadid、藝術家村上隆,和日本及中國的明星們。更在2018年在台北東方文華開設海外第一家店鋪,但現在傳出2020春夏將停止生產的消息,不知品牌是否走向結束,抑或是會東山再起呢?
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大膽前衛的西洋名與大和魂
Christian Dada 這個有著外國名字的純正日本品牌,如同品牌名稱,它也是個善於結合東西方文化並解構再重組的品牌。設計師森川正德於大阪的服裝職業學校畢業後,於2005年到倫敦進修,並加入了 Charles Anastase,其設計風格深受達達主義的影響,同時也是品牌名稱的由來。在2010年回國後,他創立了Christian Dada,憑著大膽前衛的設計迅速走紅。
品牌名稱的Christian是源自森川的爺爺,是個信仰基督教的傳統刺繡匠人,這也是為什麼他的設計總是充滿了複雜的高難度刺繡工藝; 而Dada則是因為喜歡這個藝術流派所表現出的破壞性和原創性,進而將這兩個詞彙結合,而誕生了Christian Dada這個品牌。
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古著再製精緻版的先鋒部隊
達達主義 (Dadaism) – 又被稱為反藝術、虛無主義、超現實主義(前身)。為第一次世界大戰爆發後,所孕育而生的反藝術流派,以打倒傳統藝術為目的,極度諷刺、厭惡既成藝術而走入”反藝術”的方向,否定並拒絕一切道德和美學。其中最具代表性的例子則是杜象 (Marcel Duchamp),以”現成品”的藝術形式表現,讓物件原有的實用意義喪失殆盡,卻賦予它一個新的內容、意義,表達出其對於擺脫傳統繪畫藝術,並以一個創新的表現方式呈現。與森川的創作理念和表現方式不謀而合。
最初品牌只是設計再製軍用品和舊衣服,累積了一年半的經驗後便在東京展出,接著他便開啟了其他品牌都沒做過的事情,像是與美國搖滾樂團KISS合作,以及和在2013年影響他的設計靈感來源而邂逅的攝影藝術大師荒木經惟合作。而2018年更進一步和工裝品牌Dickies、運動品牌Kappa合作聯名,聯名的靈感來源則是美國的一代傳奇導演 David Lynch的一句話,他透過服裝將這些藝術和理念傳承給下一代。
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20SS千手觀音最終難產
據悉該品牌的代理商透漏,2020春夏 Christian Dada 的訂單似乎無法順利生產?是否因為品牌設計獨樹一格,挑戰社會大眾對美的認知,而讓消費者不願意買單,進而面臨倒閉?
另外同為眾多日本品牌華人圈代理商的24集團代表-李茶先生表示:「Dada是很優秀的品牌,台灣經營也很出色,20SS停止生產我覺得很遺憾。我們其他日本品牌的優勢就是細膩,但隨著市場M型化,日本品牌想前進華人市場勢必需要有眾多讓步與配合,從品牌、代理、營業端到客戶,溝通若無法保有誠信互通有無,市場說不要你就不要…希望有消費能力的朋友明眼看清買到真正用心製作的好衣服。」
似乎也意指未來會有更多未爆彈產生…品牌在找尋自我的定位時是否該兼顧經濟層面?屆時又該何去何從,耐人尋味。
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本文作者:Abbie Cheng
資料來源:Christian Dada