先別急著論定這樣的標題是否過於盛讚,以三原康裕(Mihara Yasuhiro)被稱作天才的地位來看,他早已用標誌性的解構是剪裁在時裝界打響名號,異材重組、圖樣混種,再加上及其講究到位的細節,和 sacai 的固定邏輯不同,MiharaYasuhiro 的想法總是自由隨性卻嚴謹,很難找到與他同調的另一號人物,但 AMOK,卻讓筆者感受到近似同樣的氛圍。
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2015年由 Yuuki Oshima 創立的 AMOK,概念總是圍繞在通過服裝,探討新舊時代的設計語言之於感受之間的變化。2019秋冬“DICHOTOMIC”主題,我們可以看到作品在這方面的呈現上更加強烈,在結構的處理上,多數作品皆採用雙層織物面料處理,並透過破壞、雷射切割表層面料的方式,使第二層圖樣顯露 ,創造帶有雙重視覺感的服飾。另一個焦點在於花紋,17世紀的波斯地毯圖樣、80年代的動物刺繡也在作品中大放異彩,搭配針織的變向織法,為本次系列與科技技術提出新舊混合的視覺層次。
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在帶有品牌意識的條件下,其呈現的樣貌、拉鏈結構的使用都有讓人嗅出 MiharaYasuhiro 氣味的感覺,而據聞 AMOK 也已經與某運動品牌有所接洽(大家可以猜猜看是哪家?),如果成真,那無疑是跟隨著 三原康裕 的大師腳步,正式接棒混種精髓的創新美學。