在米蘭男裝周,街頭潮流風依舊當道,有許多時尚評論家說過,街頭潮流只會是一個時期的趨勢,加上其來自社會次文化,發展前景並不被看好。加上近幾年許多的精品品牌和街頭潮牌合作,或是設計師入主經典品牌,雖引爆許多話題,但也讓許多品牌原本的支持者對品牌的轉變感到不滿意,進而不願意買單。Prada正是堅持著經典時裝屋的高級感,和其精良的做工,這次也特意選擇用更多高級訂製工藝和剪裁來跟這股潮流抗衡!
這次的花紋則是來自維也納的新藝術/分離派藝術家Koloman Moser,新藝術的唯美細膩圖形,加上不過於強烈、柔和的色調,正是最適合引用在經典的設計之中,細膩的圖騰筆觸和編排設計,運用在織物上更能顯現出其高級精緻感。而新藝術也是一種裝飾藝術,現代人常將其導入家居生活用品或是配件中,復古與當代並存的風格,非常受到現代人的喜愛。這一季集結了過去與未來、新和舊、運動和正式的概念,用在當代男性的時裝上。
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2020秋冬的Prada男裝,款式大部分選用經典的高訂風格,像是學院風的西裝外套、簡潔的風衣、圓肩雙排扣大衣;布料的選擇上,有帶有現代感的亮面和高質感的霧面,但這一季對於布料的選用可以說是一個對比的研究、一個回收纖維和經典傳統材質的混合或是cashmere帶有彈性,如此具有玩味和創新的手法,讓整體不失單調,乍看之下像是普通無趣的高訂經典服裝,仔細研究之後你會發現,所有的設計都藏在細節之中。
資料來源: WWD