美國時間12月3日,也就是Art Basel Miami的前一天,Kim Jones在將要開幕的Rubell Museum前方展開了他的2020男裝早秋大秀,這次引發大量媒體的關注,也算是噱頭十足。還請到貝克漢和金卡戴珊…等人作為第一排的VIP嘉賓來觀賞,最讓人好奇的應該還是這次濃濃的街頭潮流味,加上先前釋出的形象預告片,引起了各界的猜測,這次的早秋系列被譽為是和Stussy合作的第一步!
為什麼說是和Stussy合作的第一步呢? 其實在形象預告片和整個展場就可以看出,充滿明亮大膽的色彩,和用Stussy logo字體轉換重生的Dior logo;但又不見Stussy的名字或是聯名商品,只能說這一場秀是雙方合作的最佳示範。這次Jones特地請來已經退休的設計師Shawn Stussy作為這次整個系列的藝術發想人,他說到: 我把他視為藝術家,這次他所做的事情也都是”藝術”。因Kim Jones年少時深受Stussy的影響,他自己也說到: 和大家無法預期的人合作,其實跟行銷無關,這次單純是為了滿足我的個人私心,因為他是讓我想成為一名設計師的人。
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這次的主題和Miami相輔相成,是以60~70年代的衝浪風潮為主,搭配上全新的logo和多彩的印花,重現當時最時髦的風範。迷幻色彩印花的cashmere毛衣,疊加在現代的亮面襯衫或是經典的襯衫外,布袋褲剪裁的短褲配上法是布蕾帽。另外受到Stussy影響的還有帶有民族風的彩色手工串珠夾克襯衫,絲綢印花成套睡衣和純絲壓褶短褲,就是為了重現70年代衝浪者的經典風格。
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那怎麼會說Stussy不做衣服改做藝術呢?Jones說到: Shawn提供給我們的所有想法,我們都將它們用Dior的高訂視角去升級,因為我真的把他視為一個藝術家呀! 而只是用白紙黑墨水創作的Stussy也說到: 我感覺到自己是團隊的一員,隊員重新塑造、上色、延伸、加工我的黑白圖稿,我覺得最有趣的部分就是,他們只要我用感覺做藝術,然後他們再將這些草稿轉換成高級訂製的產品,還用高級訂製的工藝重現。這就是我為什麼立刻答應加入這個團隊的原因之一!
Dior最受歡迎的經典雙排扣西裝和cashmere上衣和好男孩形象,則是被Stussy元素徹底的顛覆,在這些原有的經典版型上搭配彩色的亮面蛇皮,也和Miami這個城市做了有趣的呼應,儘管Kim Jones來到Dior不久,但他成功的創造了自己的男裝語言,用服裝和年輕世代挑戰性別界線的想法做溝通,也善加利用了Dior原有的工藝作為輔助。但這次他將曾經引領潮流的元老帶回,也努力的讓現代聰明的消費者,能夠同時擁有經典和流行兩種不同面向的款式。
這樣一種像喜愛的設計師致敬同時結合跨時代文化的方式,大概只有這位喜愛藝術的設計師能想的到了吧?而選擇在這個時間和地點也是經過深思熟慮的。各大媒體也大膽的預測,這一季將會大受好評,可能會再創許多爆款也說不定呢!
資料來源:WWD